Week 03  This week we get the ribs for the port wing

The bits we received

And what we did with them

Remove the ribs and look at them carefully.  See that there is a bit of a ridge where the arrow is pointing in the lower rib.  Sand this to a smooth curve as shown on the top.  This will make it easier to fit the rib capping strips which will come later.

Now simply glue all the ribs in place.  Make sure they are all flush with the bottom of the spar, and make sure they are all in line.  As I've said before, it's really important to keep the wing flat.  I found that I had to ease most of the slots with an emery board (steal one from your wife, girl friend, mother, unless you're a lady modeler in which case you'll probably have one anyway).  I think that the wood this week was a tiny bit thicker than last week.  This is to be expected as wood is a natural material.

I haven't glued the sub spars on yet.  These will fit into slots in the wing tip which you will get shortly.  There is nothing wrong with fitting the sub spars now, but doing them later saves the bother of having to measure them and making sure they are glued in exactly the right place.  If you do fit them now, remember to sand the spars, not the slots to get a good fit.  You should aim for a snug fit.  It shouldn't be tight.  There are two reasons for this.  First, you may break the parts if the fit is tight, and second, if it's too tight a fit the glue will be squeezed out of the joint and you will get a weak join.

Note:  Paul has mentioned that he trimmed the sub spars back against the rib at the wing root, whereas the photos in the mag show it protruding.  Not a problem - they will be cut back later anyway. 

Hot tip of the week

Be careful of the trailing edge tips as they are very fragile.  If the do break off keep the bit safely.  It will be easier to glue it back after the trailing edge has been fitted.

How many hours does it take to build the model ??

This week :

2 hrs

Running total :

7 hrs

Take me back to week 2

Take me to week 4